This product known to fight wrinkles is not as effective as we think according to dermatologists. Explanations!
Many of us are looking for a real fountain of youth in our pots of cream. They are applied in the hope of slowing down the signs of time, smoothing the skin and restoring volume. We often find anti-aging active ingredients with miraculous promises, ensuring a plump and elastic epidermis. However, one of these widely used ingredients may not perform as well as expected. Indeed, while we thought we had found a good ally for a plumped face, dermatologists are breaking a myth as old as time. Unfortunately the secret to younger skin is not found in this molecule known to all.
Naturally produced by the body, this protein helps maintain a firm and smooth face. “It acts as a scaffolding that supports the dermis, in order to maintain the elasticity and hydration of the skin. But as we age, production slows down, leading to visible signs of aging like fine lines, sagging and dull skin.“, tells Dr. Eunice Park, dermatologist, to the American media The Zoe Report. From our twenties, we lose around 1% of collagen each year. The first instinct is then to try to compensate for this drop with cosmetics that contain it.
Applying creams containing collagen will not stimulate production or necessarily maintain that which is already present. The explanation is quite simple: applied topically, the molecule remains on the surface of the skin due to its large size. “Despite claims for collagen creams, which range from improving skin elasticity to a healthy glow, and even reducing the appearance of wrinkles, there is limited evidence that it can penetrate deep enough to rebuild collagen in the dermis“, continues Dr. Park. On the other hand, certain active ingredients such as retinoids and peptides really promote natural synthesis and make a real difference to skin aging.
Of course, this doesn’t mean that collagen is completely useless. Most of the benefits of this active ingredient are linked to hydration and temporary smoothing of the face. “I tell my patients that it can flood the skin with water to make fine lines and wrinkles appear reduced, but it will not replace lost collagen or build new one.“, specifies Dr. Park. It is exactly for these reasons that masks, eye patches and other beauty feats give this immediate glow and are therefore perfect before an event for example. In the long term, however, they will not bring improvement. Remember the essential: retinoids and peptides, these are the real champions!
