Competition is getting tougher in the luxury market, including for this family fashion house founded more than 160 years ago, famous for its timeless pieces. Decryption.
It’s no mystery to anyone that the world of luxury has never been as competitive as it is today, and for good reason. Between the growth of emerging markets, particularly in Asia, the demands of new consumers who seek identification and shared values with the brand, and the impact of digitalization, some fashion brands are struggling to keep up. This is the case of this luxury house that we adore, subject to several crises in recent years.
Becoming famous for its iconic trench coat and tartan pattern, imagined in 1921, this British luxury house suffered from an identity crisis which seems to have harmed its growth and prestige. The first factor is probably linked to the fact that the brand has lost its appeal among the new generation, despite the efforts made to modernize its image under the leadership of designers like Christopher Bailey, then Riccardo Tisci. In an attempt to diversify, the British house explored more avant-garde lines, but this approach disconcerted some traditional customers without entirely appealing to Generation Z. Tisci’s departure in 2022 marked a turning point, as his style has failed to reposition the brand coherently in the ultra-competitive world of contemporary luxury.
Beyond that, Burberry faced significant structural and financial challenges. Indeed, the COVID-19 pandemic has weakened the luxury sector due to the drop in tourist flows, particularly those coming from China, a key market for Burberry at the time. The economic recovery was not enough to completely turn around the situation, and the brand is now looking for strategies to revive its sales while reconnecting with its customer base.
It was precisely with this approach that Burberry decided to hire Daniel Lee, known for his success at Bottega Veneta, hoping that he could breathe new life into the history of the house. Since his beginnings as creative director, Daniel Lee has focused on a return to Burberry’s British roots and classic aesthetic, aiming to reinforce its heritage character while integrating offbeat, more modern elements. A bias which clearly reflects its desire to reconnect the brand to its original aesthetic without falling into the trap of outdatedness.
Founded in 1856 by Thomas Burberry in Basingstoke, England, Burberry quickly rose to the pinnacle of classic British luxury. In 1879, the designer made his store part of fashion history by designing the “gabardine”, a waterproof, lightweight and cold-resistant fabric that propelled Burberry onto the international scene. The trench coat, made for the British army during the First World War, became the emblem of the house. In the 1980s to 1990s, the brand diversified by becoming a true symbol of luxury, notably with the arrival of the emblematic check pattern, the “check”, which has now become a fashion essential.
And if the brand is going through difficult times today, many Internet users and loyal Burberry fans are expressing their support for the brand on social networks, praising its classic pieces that have become truly timeless: “My Burberry pieces have never changed: trench, bag, down jacket. I bought them over ten years ago and they are impeccable”“It’s a house with an incredible history.”, “Burberry, a good quality brand! No offense to the haters.”, “I love the style of this brand, I don’t have anything from them, but I dream of it…” can we read in the comments of a video by luxury expert and TikToker May Berthelot. The least we can say is that the tartan house does not seem to have said its last word, fortunately!
