When it comes to fashion, it’s always the same old refrain: trends come and go. This is the case of this distant trend, around twenty years old, which is now rearing its head again. The most prominent data analysts in the modosphere, like Analytics styleestimate that it even generated an increase in searches of 113% in 2025.
A fashion fix that is not new. Indeed, this jacket was already the joy of fashionistas in the 2000s: we bought it in markets, flea markets or even thrift stores for less than ten euros. Her dress version – called “Cheongsam” or “Qipao” – was adored by Nicole Kidman and Kate Moss.
Recognizable by its high, structured collar called “mandarin collar”, its buttons called “Pankou” or “frog buttons”, and its neat satin look worthy of centuries-old ceremonies, the Tangzhuang jacket – also wrongly called “Mandarin jacket” in popular culture – is today emulated on the fashion world. Already yesterday, in December 1983, Lady Diana wore a gray coat decorated with this ancestral detail during a visit to Hampshire, Great Britain.
A few days ago, Hypebeast same title “the Pankou button is everywhere and it lays down the law.” A resurgence of trend which is notably due to the sportswear giant called adidas. On the occasion of the Lunar New Year 2025, the German brand did fashion glocalization by offering, exclusively on the Asian market, its famous track jacket adorned with the Pankou buttons characteristic of Chinese culture.
On the web, the jacket caused a stir among fashionistas: TikTok And Instagram highlighting it circulated at high speed, fueling the jealousy of French fashionistas, desperate that it would not be sold on their territory. Good news for angry French fashionistas: it has been available since January 2026 in some of the brand’s Parisian stores.
If cultural appropriation is a fight on which activists continue to raise awareness among both lay and seasoned fashionistas, for the Tang jacket, you can choose to buy original pieces directly from the Chinese community which are resold in thrift stores.
Otherwise, bet on labels that credit the original community and/or use the right terms to designate this piece which is today at the heart of all desires. Looking forward to seeing you wear it in 2026!
