Since it is so rare to find the battery pants at the right length, follow the advice of the Natalia Maciel seamstress and learn to make your hems yourself. It’s easy and it’s economical. To your needles!
The necessary material:
To make a hem on your pants with the councils of the seamstress Natalia Macielyou need:
– A tape or a sewing rule
– needles
– the thread of the desired color (same shade as clothing for more discretion)
– a chalk
– scissors
– an iron
– A Pattemouille
– a sewing machine (optional)
And a little elbow oil as well as your favorite pants!
Determine the desired length:
It is important to have your pants on yourself to properly assess the desired length. In addition, think of the shoes with which you will wear it! Flat or heel?
With dish, provide a length at the floor by being barefoot. On the other hand, if you are already thinking of putting on your pants with stilettos, put them during the fitting. Note that the wider the pants, the longer it should be.
Fix the pins:
Once the desired length has been assessed, it’s up to you to play with the pins to have all around each leg.
NB: For those who would like more play behind than in front or vice versa, this is possible. But be careful not to make a difference from more than 1 to 1.5 centimeters so that it remains discreet and harmonious.
Check the length on both legs:
Before any attack, check that both legs are very identical. For this, it is advisable to take the pants at the level of the size on each side. Shake both legs one on the other and fold the pants. Place it flat on a straight table and let one leg slide on the other. Same length? We can start!
Check the length of the pins:
It is important to check the height of the pins initially located on the basis of the hems. Here we will have 8 centimeters. For handmade hem, you will always have to leave between 4 centimeters and maximum 5 centimeters of edge between minimum. To put it simply, cut the pear in half and make 4.5 centimeters. Measure this using a rule or one tape meter all around each leg.
Trace in chalk:
Your measurement being made from the hem base (4.5 centimeters), you can go to chalk tracing. It is important to always be installed on a straight table.
Cut with scissors:
This is what the previous step of chalk tracing will serve you: cut straight with classic scissors all around each leg.
Remove the pins:
Once the value of your hem (4.5 centimeters) has been determined on each leg, you can remove all the pins.
Iron with a feet:
After ensuring that the “break” or folding of each hem is straight, go to the ironing phase using a conventional iron. Be careful, for dark fabrics – navy, black, gray – it is advisable to use a Tattemouille, small cotton fabric to put on the garment before passing the iron. This is to avoid polishing the pants and leaving traces.
Surfile:
For those who have a classic family sewing machine, the surfil will make a stop point where the fabric has been cut to prevent it from festivating, because of the washing or the simple fact of wearing the pants repeatedly. This is called zig-zag or overlock, depending on the machine that we use. Make this operation all around each leg.
End of preparation work:
After the sewing machine step – or not – iron the surfil to flatten it, all on the edge of the pants, which does not require Pattemouille this time. Indeed, it is this part that will find itself inside the pants. Fold the sewing value then fix four pins, that is to say one at each end, on both legs.
All the preparation work is over. We will therefore be able to harvest the pants by hand.
Bug: Maintain two thicknesses of fabric with elongated buildings, invisible to the place.
Put on the wire in the needle chas:
Pass the thread in the needle and fold it for less than half. Let hang a longer end than the other. Make a little knot at the end on the longest side. Here we go !
Bug by hand:
Buging will be the point that we use to fix the hem, between the value of it and the pants. It is best to be sitting and positioning the clothing flat flat. Subject the hem. We always start with the thickness, at the seams of the garment. Sew about 1 cm from surfil (or zigzag). First prick on the value of the latter and come out on the pants, very slightly so that it can be seen as little as possible on the place. Be careful not to pull too much on the wire, leave him flexibility to avoid the folds. Make 2-3 points fairly close, with less than 1 cm between each.
The final result:
And here are your fixed hems. Remove the pins, place the flat pants flat and left for a last step iron, with Pattemouille. Congratulations on your seamstress talents and now you are custom pants!
“Learn to make a hem”
