Decrease in fine lines and fine lines, boost in the production of collagen and elastin … This anti-aging active has many benefits. Still unknown, he could well become the superstar of our cosmetics. Zoom.
In the anti-aging cosmetics market, there is no shortage of innovations and assets. From hyaluronic acid to collagen via retinol or bakuchiol, there is only embarrassment of choice. But another ingredient, a little less known, begins to be talked about. It is already found in many formulas, but also in lip balms and in the form of food supplements. It alone makes it possible to stimulate the production of collagen, to improve the hydration of the skin, and to protect it against free radials, but also to strengthen the skin barrier. Rather not bad, right?
Completely natural, this active already present in the skin also helps to improve its firmness and texture. Without knowing it, you may even use it already on a daily basis. “”Peptides are molecules made up of 2 to 50 amino acids. They constitute the basic elements of the proteins (collagen, elastin, keratin …). Their low molecular weight allows them to penetrate layers of the skin to exercise specific functions“Explains Stéphanie Soulé, doctor of life and health sciences in Typology. Applied to the skin, peptides act as messengers by sending signals to skin cells to tell them to produce more collagen or elastin.
If we do not talk as much about peptides as other anti-aging active ingredients, it may also be because they are difficult to understand. Indeed, they are divided into four categories where everyone has particular properties. First, there are those called signal peptides: widely used in anti-wrinkle care, it is they who make it possible to stimulate the production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid. Transporters peptides, “facilitate the routing of trace elements (copper, manganese, iron) to skin cells, facilitating the reactions necessary for the repair and regeneration of the skin“, Continues Stéphanie Soulé. For their part, the enzyme inhibitory peptides will block the action of certain enzymes responsible for the degradation of collagen for example, erase the visible signs of aging. Finally, neuropeptides block the release of chemicals causing muscle contraction. Among them, we can cite the argireline that relaxes Responsible for expression wrinkles, as Botox would.
The good side of peptides? They are even suitable for the most sensitive epiderms. In his book “My Skincare Code”, Dr. Chahinez Filali recommends using them morning and evening, and opting for formulas that combine them with ceramids, antioxidants or exfoliants “such as AHA and BHA, which help accelerate cell renewal and fight against signs of aging.“Also be sure to choose products without rinsing (cream or serum) to allow better peptid penetration.
But how to explain the sudden craze of the cosmetic industry for peptides? Recently, they are the subject of more and more scientific research in order to better understand their mechanism. “”Studies on their effectiveness, stability and tolerance are multiplying, strengthening their legitimacy in formulations“, says Dr. Soulé. However, she wants to specify:”In the field of “anti-aging” care, their global efficiency is still the subject of complementary clinical studies. Certain peptides show interesting results on firmness, hydration or reduction of wrinkles, but they do not yet have a level of scientific evidence as solid as other well -established assets.“”
