Would alcohol in perfumes soon be obsolete? A technology (not so new) seems to be gaining more and more momentum, to the point of conquering the biggest perfume houses. Zoom.
Perfume is on the verge of a small revolution. Formulated since the dawn of time with alcohol, it seems that a new, more natural and more environmentally friendly ingredient is taking our favorite juices by storm. From Dior to Guerlain, the biggest perfume houses have already been conquered. The reason? Although alcohol has the power to link the notes in a fragrance to make it a unique scent, it is not the friend of the most sensitive skin. Worse still, it can be photosensitizing when exposed to the sun and leave stains on the body. In terms of the manufacturing process, alcohol-based perfumes have a certain carbon footprint. Indeed, the chemical processes used to extract it require energy. In addition, they contain solvents that are often harmful to the skin and nature.
Faced with these problems, water-based perfumes have made a sensational entry into the world of scents. Far from being new (certain technologies were marketed in 2005), they are increasingly present on our beauty shelves. Their goal? Obtain perfumes with properties identical to those of eau de toilette and eau de parfum, in terms of odor, trail and staying power, in particular through a technology called Aquafine, marketed by the company MANE, based on water microemulsions. “This is very new for water perfumes which were often made as light hair perfumes, children’s perfumes, because they can’t use alcohol“, tells us Serge Rach, founder of the Nice brand Velvetvelo.
Thus, these products combine the art of perfumery with that of skin care: “We will have better hydration of the upper layers of the epidermis thanks to this substitution. The interest of this is precisely this skincare, cosmetic side, which is very interesting“, explains Loic Bleuez, director of fine fragrance innovation at MANE. A boon for the most sensitive skin. The icing on the cake: following the wishes of perfume houses, it is possible to add active ingredients such as hyaluronic acid to the formulas to an even more hydrating side. The juices with water can then be sprayed on the chest, hair, or even clothes without risking staining them or causing a reaction.It’s a very natural and gentle way to wear perfume.“, adds Serge Rach.
Obviously, faced with this less conventional way of working with the material, a question arises: are the staying power and sillage of the product the same as with alcohol? Well, the answer is simple: yes. Obviously, certain adaptations are necessary in order to find an olfactory performance similar to a perfume with alcohol, but according to Loic Bleuez, perfume with water “will not turn, and will stay for a very long time on the supports on which it is applied.“Same speech from Serge Rach, whose brand only manufactures water-based fragrances. The founder of Velvetvelo assures us: water-based fragrances are more stable, the trail is more linear, that is to say say that we feel less the disappearance of certain notes as the day goes on. They are slightly different but just as powerful.We have seen that we have the possibility of using plants and ingredients that we do not know how to use well with alcohol, but there are also ingredients that we do not control..” Among them? Oriental notes (for example oud) and vanilla, which are difficult to tame in water.
Although it still has a little way to go, water perfume seems well and truly set to change the paradigm of eau de toilette. After all, it is still in its infancy and piques the curiosity of a large number of aficionados of the world of scents, but also of a younger audience. “And I believe that there is a demand, especially in generation Z, young people want to know what is happening with the products, how they interact with their body, with their health“, says Serge Rach. And adds: “I believe it is a new formula, the aim of which is not to fight against other perfumes, but to provide an alternative which is better.“
