Since the explosion of organic cosmetics, certain brands have taken advantage of this boom to proclaim themselves natural without really being so. Explanations.
Although it is nothing new, organic cosmetics seems to be becoming more and more popular. It appeals to the new generation, determined to understand what they put on their skin, but also to people looking for a more responsible way of consuming. The problem ? This growing craze gives rise to questionable practices on the part of cosmetic manufacturers. Indeed, many of them claim to be “clean” or “organic” without really being so. The fault lies in a framework that is sometimes too poorly regulated. In 2018, for example, an international European standard, called ISO 16 128, attempts to harmonize discourse and create a common rule around organic cosmetics. But now, this presents a great risk of deceiving consumers. “An ingredient is considered “naturally derived” when it contains more than 50% natural raw materials. This type of ingredient can be included in the percentage of naturalness displayed on the packaging of a product, in the same way as a 100% natural ingredient.“, explains for example the Cosmébio label on its website. But that’s not all: this standard does not mention a list of prohibited ingredients. Thus, a product can claim to be organic, even if it contains parabens, silicones or phenoxyethanol, all prohibited by most labels Finally, this standard does not call on external control bodies.
Among other misleading practices, many brands display “free from” statements on their packaging, without ever really mentioning what is found inside the product. For example, “paraben-free” does not mean that there are no silicones or other controversial ingredients. The same goes for cosmetics displaying “x% ingredients of natural origin”. The terms “green” and “sustainable” should also be taken with a grain of salt, as the media Le Quotidien du Pharmacien points out. For their part, green packaging, often chosen to evoke an environmentally friendly product, even when this is not the case, can mislead the consumer.
To avoid making a mistake and select truly organic cosmetics, it is important to choose them certified by transparent and controlled labels. The latter often have strict specifications, and set up regular checks with brands. Additionally, most do not allow the use of GMOs, silicone, parabens, phenoxyethanol (a controversial preservative), PEG, or synthetic fragrances or dyes. Among the most reliable? The Cosmébio, Cosmos Organic, and Cosmos Natural labels (all grouped under the umbrella of the COSMOS group), ECOCERT but also Nature & Progrès, renowned as one of the strictest labels.