During the very first Haute Couture parade by Valentino signed Alessandro Michele, Lou Doillon stole the spotlight in a fraction of a second. His outfit? A nod to the classic locker room, but twisted right as it should be.
Chic without fuss, Lou Doillon continues to trace his singular line in the fashion landscape. His last style declaration? The pattern that the podiums love, that brands are already declining in abundance, and that we find on luxury pieces as at H&M.
As soon as he arrived at the Valentino haute couture parade, on January 29, 2025, the tone was set. Lou Doillon moved to the front row, flanked by Carla Bruni and Elton John. No total black look or long satin dress. She opts for a graphic jacket with a frank, fitted neckline, punctuated by a red knot that captures light and looks. Downstairs, straight loss costume pants breaks the dressed side. At the feet, pointed end boots. And for the style, black gloves in tulle and lace that recall an era without imitating it. On his arm, a flowery pocket with golden chain. Result: a silhouette both sewing and urban. A mixture that perfectly embodies what fashion means in 2025: having fun with the codes without locking yourself up in a genre.
But it is above all the pattern adorning his clothes that captures our attention. He was believed to be cheesy or too wise, reserved for grandmother’s dresses or childhood memories, he returns in force. This is the pea print.
Valentino relaunched it in its spring-summer collection with frank cuts, assertive volumes, contrast. Acne Studios slipped it on a minimalist white t-shirt. Saint Laurent integrated it into a long cinema -style coat. Moschino dropped, in a spectacular long dress. It is everywhere.
In mini version on a tie or a bag. In XXL version on a dress, a skirt or an oversized shirt. Black on white, white on black, pink, blue, green. He stands out as the graphic obsession of the season, as simple to adopt as a straight jeans or a white t-shirt.
And contrary to popular belief, it is not reserved for a single generation, nor a single style. These small circles which now line the bearers of luxury brands like those of Fast Fashion. Mango, Zara, H&M, Monoprix, on any room and at all prices, there is no doubt that you will find the peas you need.
You will understand, long seen as a retro wink, they are now claimed as a real statement. Lou Doillon was not content to wear them, she embodied them. And as often with her, what she touches suddenly becomes desirable.
