We have long heard that a lighter concealer helps brighten the eyes. In reality, it’s quite the opposite. A makeup artist explains why this habit accentuates bags and dark circles, and reveals a tip for choosing the right shade.
Choosing your concealer seems like a game of chance. We hesitate between two shades, we end up choosing the lighter one “to bring light”, then we go home convinced that we have made the right choice. Except that once in front of the mirror, the bags seem more visible, the dark circles appear grayish and the eyes frankly don’t look more rested. If this scenario resonates with you, it’s probably not an application issue, but a color issue.
This is precisely what professional makeup artist Cristelle Ballet, known under the nickname frenchtouchofmakeup on social networks, wanted to show in a recent video published on Instagram. To illustrate her point, she draws on a very concrete situation. “I just had surgery under my eyes. On one side I have some bruising, but on the other side I have a huge bag here, and on top of that I have a little dark circle underneath. This is the perfect opportunity to show you what not to do and what you are going to do.” His observation is clear: a concealer that is too light does not make the volume disappear. On the contrary, it highlights them. By reflecting more light, it draws the eye to the bag under the eye instead of obscuring it. As for the dark circles, they can quickly take on a grayish tint. In short, everything we were trying to avoid.
To correct a dark circle, the most important thing is not to lighten it, but to neutralize its color. This is where undertones come into play. “Orange, a little apricot, these are the warm pigments of the product. They will allow you to neutralize your hollow circles. And it is also a color which will create an optical effect, aimed at flattening your pocket”, confides the expert. Simply put, a slightly warm concealer often does the job much better than a very light shade. To make the right choice, Cristelle Ballet recommends a five-second test: “If you want to check if your concealer isn’t too light at home, you’re going to apply it to the side of your hand, place your hand on your face. If you see a drop, that color is too light. If it’s the same shade, it’s the right color.”
Note that the way you apply it also matters. The makeup artist recommends applying the material directly to the pocket, then going down to the dark circle before blending it towards the middle of the cheek. This placement allows you to correct the color and deceive the eye a little on the volumes.
Also, bMany automatically release a lighter powder, thinking of prolonging the luminous effect. Bad idea, according to Cristelle Ballet. “If your powder is too light, unfortunately, it will swell your pocket even more and gray your dark circle. I advise you to take a powder the color of your skin. You apply it to the pocket and the dark circle. Not only will it set, and it will even correct and provide a little more coverage.” In short, it’s difficult to be clearer!
