Very present in bathrooms, this product supposed to improve our beauty routine is not unanimous among specialists. Behind its reassuring image, it could even be counterproductive.
In the cosmetic aisles, we often choose our products guided by a promise or a pretty image. In recent years, a trend has clearly emerged: “clean”, “natural”, “without this or that”. A way of consuming that reassures and gives the impression of making a smarter choice for your skin. In France, this shift has become well established. Brands are increasing the number of refined formulas, green packaging and shortened ingredient lists, with the idea of offering more respectful care. However, on the side of dermatologists, the discourse is much less enthusiastic.
Indeed, specialist Divya Shokeen, interviewed by HuffPost, warns of a very popular product which, according to her, regularly poses problems in consultation. She even goes so far as to say: “I think they are the worst thing on the market.” A position that is surprising, especially when we know the success of these formulas in France, often chosen for their “cleaner” image.
This paradox is largely due to the way in which these products are perceived. The word “natural” evokes something simple, almost obvious, as if the skin would necessarily react better. Except that, in reality, this promise is based on vagueness. As Cedars-Sinai Hospital points out, relying on the Food and Drug Administration, there is no official definition of this term in cosmetics. Result: two very different products can claim the same label.
Additionally, on the formulation side, certain ingredients widely used in these ranges can pose a problem, especially in sensitive areas. Baking soda, for example, is often chosen for its absorbent properties, but it can unbalance the skin and cause redness. Essential oils provide fragrance and a “sensory” image, but are also known to be among the frequent causes of skin reactions. In short, we are talking about natural deodorants here.
What makes things even more complicated is that they don’t all work the same way. Unlike classic antiperspirants, which act on perspiration itself, these products rely mainly on absorbent or perfuming agents to mask odors. Result: effectiveness varies greatly from one formula to another, and some skin reacts badly to this accumulation of active ingredients, even of plant origin.
Faced with this, dermatologists advise not to rely solely on the “natural” label. It is better to look at the composition in detail, avoid overly perfumed formulas if the skin is sensitive, and test gradually to see how the skin reacts. Some simpler alternatives, with few ingredients and without potentially irritating agents, may be more suitable, whether natural or not.
