They have spanned the decades, become true classics and silenced the most skeptical.
Certain pieces mark the spirits of their decade. Others stand the test of time and become part of fashion history forever, becoming true classics. They are not only emblematic of the era in which they were born, but they return tirelessly, worn by subsequent generations – sometimes even a century later. They break the codes of yesteryear’s trends, recreate an aesthetic in their own right (like deconstructivist fashion), are praised or strongly criticized; in short, they leave no one indifferent. This is the case for these shoes which have (again) created a buzz in recent years. Appearing in 1989, the young people of the Gen Z finally took hold of them, helping to popularize them among a generation who previously did not know them. According to a panel of five fashion experts brought together by our colleagues from New York Timesthey are part of “25 Most Influential Shoes and Bags of the Last 100 Years.”
These atypical shoes, inspired by Japanese traditions dating from the 15th century, are the first to achieve unanimous approval among specialists: “It’s definitely the most recognizable shoe” ; “She is one of those shoes that raises the bar of what is possible” ; “She paved the way for designers like Phoebe Philo and all her beau-moche design shoes”… You will have understood, the most influential shoes of the century are none other than the house’s Tabis Margiela. Emblematic of the brand, the latter even dedicated an entire documentary to them at the end of 2025.
It must be said that their aesthetic has disrupted the codes of shoes as we knew them in the West: if traditional shoes feature a square, pointed or round toe which brings all the toes together, the shoes in question create a visible demarcation between the big toe and the four others, a bit like a foot wearing a sock would appear in a flip-flop.
A signature silhouette that Margiela will decline in all possible and imaginable forms. If the first model consisted of suede or crinkled leather ankle boots, the brand will later offer them in ballerina, sneakers or mule versions. As the success of the shoe grew over time, the Belgian house even collaborated with other luxury brands for even more couture iterations.
In 2024 and 2025, Margiela thus offers an entire line with the genius of shoes Christian Louboutin : the shoes of this collaboration, hybrid to perfection, mix the codes of the two houses: the split toe of the Belgian and the red sole of the French. The best of both worlds.
