Long mocked for its XXL sole, this brand has become essential on the streets of big cities. To the point of shaking Nike, which is going through the worst crisis in its history.
In the metro, at the office, on the terrace of a café: impossible to miss. They are everywhere, recognizable among thousands with their thick soles and their often flashy colors. This sneaker has supplanted the Stan Smith, the Air Force 1 and other Converse in the hearts and especially on the feet of French women. On Instagram, the comments are igniting: “they run fast“, “too beautiful”Internet users rave about the new Bondi 9 model. A spectacular turnaround for shoes long considered unsightly, which now embody the new standard of fashion favoring comfort over pure aesthetics.
This meteoric rise is to the detriment of the historic giant of the sector. According to Challenges, Nike is going through one of the worst crises in its history. On April 24, 2026, American announced the elimination of 1,400 positions, after several waves of layoffs. Last quarter, its net profit lost more than a third of its value, while its turnover stagnated. In six months, the stock price of the behemoth has fallen by almost 30%. The reason? “They did the exact opposite of Nike “, summarizes the weekly: while the American comma focused everything on lifestyle and fashion collaborations, this rising brand remained focused on performance and pure innovation.
This brand is Hoka. And few consumers know it, but it was born in France, in Annecy, in 2009. Two former Salomon engineers then imagined a running shoe with a maximalist sole, designed to absorb shock on mountain trails. Bought in 2012 by the American Deckers (also owner of UGG), the brand is gradually exploding, driven by the ugly sneakers trend and an unstoppable argument: comfort. Its star models, the Clifton and the Bondi, appeal well beyond sports enthusiasts. “ I also have Hokas but Cliftons. After having been on Asics for a long time, Hoka is really great“, summarizes an Internet user, in a comment representative of the thousands of opinions that flourish on social networks.
Even the head of state has succumbed. Emmanuel Macron was recently seen in the middle of a running session wearing a pair of Hoka, an Eleven model dating from 2019 and now unavailable for sale. A nod that says a lot about the anchoring of the brand, which has become transversal to all generations and all walks of life.
The phenomenon is such that Hoka is increasing its openings in the capital: after a first flagship store on Boulevard des Capucines in spring 2024, the brand has inaugurated a second Parisian boutique in the Marais district, according to LSA.
“Paris welcomed us with open arms”welcomes Guido Geilenkirchen, vice-president Hoka EMEA. It remains to be seen how the historic giants will react. The French have already decided: comfort has won.
